Modern technology has increased our comfort and perhaps our success afield. Yet, some hunters seek reminders of the traditional and historical elements of waterfowling. Others enjoy using their own handmade accessories. Creating your own cork decoys offers both rewards.

        David Crutcher, a novice crafter of cork, has turned out some nifty working decoys. I've used his handiworks to bag birds, and to decorate my home. Crutcher shared some of his cork decoy-making tips for "Bent On Waterfowl" readers, in hopes of introducing others to this intriguing hobby.

        "I'm getting more interested in the historical part of waterfowling", said Crutcher, who became interested in decoy craft after browsing The Duck Hunter's Boat Page and a Jennings Decoy catalog (see below). Although decoys can be made from other materials, such as wood, resins, plastic pellets, and foam/burlap, Crutcher likes cork because it's easy to shape using just a rasp and hacksaw. He also likes the traditional look of cork.

        Crutcher purchased a single kit for his first decoy, which included a rough-shaped body and head (both needed finishing), glass eyes, and a pre-cut keel and tailboard. His process for creating a working decoy goes something like this:

• Carve the head to the desired shape and position. Heads often are made with basswood - a soft, even-grained wood.
• Shape the body with a rasp. If using a sheet of cork, cut rectangular blocks and do the general shaping with a hacksaw, then use the rasp for final shaping.
• Make the keel and tailboard from construction grade red cedar, or use those included with a kit. Glue on the tailboard. Strap on the keel with a rubber band, and check for level floating. Add weight to the keel as needed (1 oz. lead fishing weights drilled in and secured with wood glue). Glue the head and keel to the body.
• For added durability, secure the head to the keel with a dowel through the body, and screw the keel to the tailboard. Drill a hole in the keel for the anchor line.
• If using the decoy for hunting, apply a sealant (spar varnish or varathane). The sealant does not come with the kits.
• Make a paste using sealant and cork dust, and use it to fill any large gaps in the cork surface.
• Apply one coat of an exterior-grade primer to the decoy.
• Apply 2-4 coats of paint. Paint kits can be purchased separately.
• Drill holes for the eyes, and glue them in.
• Attach the line and anchor.

        To keep the decoys in prime condition, store/transport them in individual bags, or specially made bags with separate pockets for each decoy. Store them out of the elements and away from extreme heat or cold.

        Crutcher estimated he spent 3 hours crafting his first cork decoy from a kit, and 12 hours per decoy when creating his own heads and bodies from uncut materials. He said carving the head is the most tedious task; he uses a utility knife, but said a "power carver" (grinder with flexible shaft) would speed up the job considerably. Crutcher advised "Take your time and enjoy the craft; you're not going to create anything in a hurry". He suggests starting with a single kit, and progressing to bulk materials later.

        I asked Crutcher which aspect of crafting cork decoys he found most enjoyable - making them, giving them away (they make great gifts), or shooting over them. "All of those.", he said, while adding an element of posterity, "I also enjoy creating something I know will remain behind me".

        To get started on your own cork decoys, check the following web sites where decoy-makers hang out (www.duckboats.net; www.theduckblind.com; www.duckstickers.com). Also check the Jennings Decoy Co. catalog (tel. 1-800-331-5613) and the book "Making of Hunting Decoys" by William Veasey (available at www.amazon.com).

        Thanks to DAVID CRUTCHER for sharing his experiences making cork decoys.

    This article was originally published in BENT ON WATERFOWL. For a free subscription, visit http://www.naturebent.com/

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